The first step is to narrow down the tang and neck area, so we have someplace easy to grab the steel by the edges with the tongs.

Now heat up the tip area about halfway up the length of the bar and hammer the spine at the tip to flatten it out and make it longer.
This will also thicken the area at the spine. So, you have to take another heat on the steel and lay it on the flat and hammer it down to the starting thickness again.
Go back and forth from hammering the spine down and flattening the thickness out until you have something that looks like this.

Now grab the steel by the pointy end and heat up the tang and heel area. You will start hammering the heel out using the cross-peen end of the hammer.
Do not hit with all your might. You will end up with divots that you will never get out.

Use a series of firm hits on one side, reheat, hammer the other side equally. Always lay the side of the steel against the anvil face. The heel will move away and backward, pushing the tang area upward.
We will fix that later. You want the heel to be about 2 inches from the spine to the edge. The edge should be about the thickness of a dime.

Now start heating and hammering along the edge toward the tip using the regular side of the hammer (not the peen).
Start along the very edge and work up to the spine. Do one area at a time and flip the knife over to hammer the same area on the other side. Count your blows and keep it even on both sides. This will help keep the edge centered.

Work the edge all the way to the tip. The tip will start to come up and the spine will curve with it.
Heat the whole blade, lay it flat on the anvil with the point away from you and hammer the spine down to stretch the length. Do both sides.
You want about 8 inches of cutting edge.

Now let's work on the tang area. Heat up the tang area and grab the pointy end. Hold the knife off the anvil with the edge down and the tang on the anvil face. Hammer the tang down a bit. Flip it over so the spine is on the anvil and the edge is up. Hammer the tang back down until the spine is straight. Don't hit the heel with the hammer!

Take another heat and lay the tang on the anvil on the side of the tang. Hammer it out to elongate the tang. Keep repeating this edge/side/edge/side hammering and draw the tang area out to at least 3 inches long.
It should taper from the thickest part of the spine to the end of the tang in both height and thickness. Leave the neck about 3/4-inch tall.

Now we need to planish, flatten, and straighten this out a bit. This is done at a lower heat (solid red) and with softer hits with the flat face of the hammer. You can also use a neoprene hammer with a smooth and flat face.
This is done by heating the whole blade and laying it flat on the anvil face. Light blows with a steel hammer, or fast and hard blows with the neoprene hammer.  Get the tang straight and fairly smooth. Eye the spine for straight and the edge and tang for center.
If you have a good vice, heat the blade and put the spine in the vice with the edge up. This will let you see whether the edge is straight and centered. adjust by lightly hitting the hot edge with the hammer.
Eventually, you will end up with something like this.

Now for the normalizing heats.
This is a series of heating and slow cooling in still air. The heat is supposed to be around 1475 F for most basic knife steels like the 1095 I'm using.
Most people do not have a way to adequately measure temperature in that range, so here's a neat hack. Salt melts at 1474 F.  Put a piece of coarse Kosher salt on the blade or tang area and wait for it to melt. Lay the blade on a rack to cool until dark. Holding it in a shadowy area until you don't see any more glow. Do this three times.

You can also do a stepped normalizing from 1600 to 1475 to 1250, if you have the capabilities to do that.