Hello,
I was interested in what methods everyone uses to weather proof their leather sheaths, for those who get orders for hunting, camping or extreme outdoors knives. Im currently building a hunter for a fellow who spends a majority of his free time out in the forests either hunting or hiking and he wanted the sheath for it to be leather so naturally I need to weather seal it.
Ive used the Sno-Seal before but find it tends to come off rather quickly. I also have done some with melted bees wax buffed into the leather, I find this adds some color but also makes the sheath a little "wax Tacky" when held that some do not like.
I recall reading somewhere that Bob Loveless would use a melted bees wax or paraffin with linseed oil or turpentine and dip his sheaths in it so it would cover in and out of the sheath then use the residual heat to wet form the sheath to the knife.
my concerns with this method is if the heat is too high the leather contracts and becomes very hard almost like a kydex and ripples on the edge near the stitching a bit.
Pat B
This is my way on weather proofing leather sheaths. All I do is coat the leather with olive oil.
A saddle maker in Montana I met does his leather this way. The leather needs to breath. Water is not going to ruin it. If it gets wet let it dry recoat with a little olive oil.The sheath will stay pliable. If its made from good leather it will last a long time.I don't feel an elaborate mix of ingredients need to be done and as the saying goes if you get lost and have to eat the thing a little olive oil adds flavor.
I use to mix equal parts beeswax and neat feet oil in a double boiler. When soft and mixed I added 2 tablespoons of turpentine into it. A lot of work and time to make it.
These days I use Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner. Work really well, and is very convenient, cuts out all the blending and packaging time. Lets me concentrate on making stuff I enjoy doing. Like knives and sheaths...
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This is my way on weather proofing leather sheaths. All I do is coat the leather with olive oil.
A saddle maker in Montana I met does his leather this way. The leather needs to breath. Water is not going to ruin it. If it gets wet let it dry recoat with a little olive oil.The sheath will stay pliable. If its made from good leather it will last a long time.I don't feel an elaborate mix of ingredients need to be done and as the saying goes if you get lost and have to eat the thing a little olive oil adds flavor.
Jack,
That is a interesting method, Ive never even thought of trying that, thanks for the input! is it just standard grocery store olive oil or is there a different grade of it? I know with clove oil on steel it can get kinda punky if its the wrong sort.
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Jack,
That is a interesting method, Ive never even thought of trying that, thanks for the input! is it just standard grocery store olive oil or is there a different grade of it? I know with clove oil on steel it can get kinda punky if its the wrong sort.
starte
I think any olive oil will work. the saddle marker that started me on this used Bertolli Virgin olive oil.So that's what I use
RedWing boot oil
I have used paste wax after force drying that works well, alternately I have used a heat gun to warm the leather and drive off some moisture then brushed on the wax,this also works well but is not a deep a finish as heating the whole sheath up. once cool and dry the wax is hard and can be buffed with a soft cloth to a high shean.
both methods will keep the leather from degrading but it can will make the leather hard and brittle, so any parts that will need to flex like belt loops or straps can not be done this way and will need to be oiled.
I use this method on hard use sheaths that have a lot of molding to the the design, for most sheaths I use the super sheen from tandy, or the atom wax stuff, both work fine and do not leave the leather as brittle. Belts loops and strapping I oil first with mink oil to keep them flexable.
MP
The best way I have found to "weather proof" my sheaths is by using a heat gun and paraffin wax. I heat the leather and then rub with the wax. You have to be really careful to not overheat the leather if your sheath is already made. If you are "pretreating the leather" in large quantities then a bit of shrinkage will serve to tighten up the fibers of the leather and help to extend it's working life. The leather will be hard when cooled, but if you need to mold the leather or something similar then you can gently heat the leather again and form it how you need. Once cool it will harden into the shape you have set it in ...
Doing it this way creates a sheath that will wear better and longer than any other method I have found in my 20 years of working with leather ...
Best of luck whatever method you use!!
- Frank B
