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Riveting Rivets

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Posts: 296
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Ok i have been binge watching Spartacus (TV series)and am interested his first sword which looked to have the guard riveted to the blade. so i am wondering how to properly forge and set a rivet. ya its more aken to a blacksmith then a blade smith but I enjoy making every part within reason used in my blades.

 
Posted : 19/08/2017 4:26 pm
Lin Rhea
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Kevin, If the rivet head is formed hot it is akin to blacksmithing. Most rivets formed on knives are cold.

I cant imagine there not being videos on this on youtube.

I watched The Woodwright Shop Saturday which featured Peter Ross forging strap hinges. He used a concave domed header to add shape to head of the hinge pin. That approach could be used if you're going to shape them hot. Or you can simply hammer them to shape. In the same episode, he forges a carriage bolt head which is done hot.

If your putting scales on a knife blade, you would do this cold. Your pin stock needs to be annealed to move properly. You also need to use an appropriate sized hammer as well as use proportionate intensity for the blows with the opposite end of the pins supported by the equivalent of an anvil. Work evenly and slowly.

There are so many scenarios to consider. But always think it through and do not neglect even the smallest of details.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 21/08/2017 10:31 am
Posts: 296
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Topic starter
 

|quoted:

Kevin, If the rivet head is formed hot it is akin to blacksmithing. Most rivets formed on knives are cold.

I cant imagine there not being videos on this on youtube.

I watched The Woodwright Shop Saturday which featured Peter Ross forging strap hinges. He used a concave domed header to add shape to head of the hinge pin. That approach could be used if you're going to shape them hot. Or you can simply hammer them to shape. In the same episode, he forges a carriage bolt head which is done hot.

If your putting scales on a knife blade, you would do this cold. Your pin stock needs to be annealed to move properly. You also need to use an appropriate sized hammer as well as use proportionate intensity for the blows with the opposite end of the pins supported by the equivalent of an anvil. Work evenly and slowly.

There are so many scenarios to consider. But always think it through and do not neglect even the smallest of details.

As always Great advice Lin. As for the Blade I'm planing on making the guard is riveted to the hilt like a old style bronze sword. As such it would have likely (if historically accurate) to not have the blade and tang as one sold piece, so they were riveted in place and much weaker. Frankly I don't plan on a historical blade and would incited use a full tang hilt and just have the rivets guard as decoration so i atleast dont have to worry to much about the temper being ruined. hmm I'll have to look into it a bit more before I make the blade.

 
Posted : 24/08/2017 11:02 am
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