I don't think so. If I remember correctly those colors will also come off with any metal polishing cream. I could be wrong though and in some ways I'm hoping I am. Maybe someone will chime in with a way.

I use good old gun bluing when I'm done finish sanding down to 400 grit. At this grit the bluing seems to stay on longer, don't know if I do it to a knife for sale to a customer as the bluing will ware off over time. However for my personal knifes I just touch them up with bluing again.

|quoted:

I don't think so. If I remember correctly those colors will also come off with any metal polishing cream. I could be wrong though and in some ways I'm hoping I am. Maybe someone will chime in with a way.

There's a method called "nitre bluing" but it's basically just heat bluing with liquid salts. You can rub it off with some aggressive thumb rubbing.

In short Travis, there are a few bluing methods out there, but they are all relatively uniform in finish. I'm not familiar with the Nitre bluing method Karl mentions, but the others (Cold blue, hot salt bluing, rust bluing) do not give you the variations in color that you see after heat treating. Those oranges, purples and reds are not achievable from commercially available bluing treatments, at least not that I am aware of. The only thing I have ever seen close to it is adonized titanium

Thanks for all of your replies. I appreciate the time and information!

Travis<><

Why not finish out the blade and put it back in for another temper cycle before handling? I'd recommend a slightly lower temperature depending on what you're using to temper and how much control it has since you don't want to over-temper the edge.