Genral Rule - Movin...
 
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Genral Rule - Moving Metal

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Posts: 11
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Was wondering if there was a general rule on moving metal under a hammer?

It never crossed my mind at school to ask this question.

When I look at Master knifes in books and measure them, just correlation, it seems to look like 1/3 greater then ricasso area.

After clean up, best I can get is .25" and it might just be my lack of skills at this point.

What scared me yesterday was looking at metal selection for starting my journeyman's knives. (1/4 x 1.5 or 1/4 x 2)

If 1/3" is a good rule of thumb then 1/4 x 1.5 = 2" after clean up, per ABS requirements is 2" blade width, means I have a long way to go!!

Thanks

Kenneth Latiolais

 
Posted : 27/01/2017 12:24 pm
Ed Caffrey
Posts: 747
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith
 

per ABS requirements is 2" blade width

I assume you are referring to the performance test blade? If so, the rules state: Blade Width: Maximum two (2) inches. That means the performance test blade CAN BE NO WIDER (edge to spine) THAN 2". It can be under that, just not exceed it.

Everybody forges to varying degrees of completion. A very simple rule that I use, and always teach my students..... It's OK to forge things oversized. You can always take material off later, but if it's too small, you can never add any material. OR..... You can always take it off later, but you can never put it back! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net

 
Posted : 27/01/2017 12:33 pm
Posts: 11
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Topic starter
 

Thank you very much!

I totally misread that, WOW!

Now that I take the hard math out, I'm guessing moving metal, correlation between original metal width and final width of tapper, is perhaps in the eye of the beholder-ish?

Thanks again!

Kenneth Latiolais

 
Posted : 27/01/2017 12:49 pm
Ed Caffrey
Posts: 747
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith
 

Just something to do/think about.... When you're preparing to test, read, re-read, and then again read the rules. I've had to fail people who came to me for their JS performance test because they didn't read or fully understand what the rules state... the test knives they brought were not within the specs specified in the rules.

In one case I even made the excuse, "I have to go to the bathroom" and showed the individual where the grinding belts were at, and pointed at the grinder. When I came back 20 mins later he hadn't gotten the message, and was still sitting there shaking his head, rather then making the blade a bit shorter. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> (His blade was only a tad more then 1/4" too long). There is no leeway what so ever if the finished test knife is oversized beyond the rules, but under those stated specs is fine. (Hint, Hint!)

I assume when you say "tapper" you're referring to Distal Taper? Or do you mean taper from the spine to the edge? In either case, both are very important factors in the blade passing the performance test. The distal taper (blade tapering from ricasso to tip) plays a key role in the bending portion of the test, and the taper of the grind (spine to edge) plays a pivotal role in cutting the rope, and chopping the 2x4s.

Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net

 
Posted : 27/01/2017 1:30 pm
Posts: 11
Member
Topic starter
 

First let start by thinking you so much for your time and then apologize for my lack of clarity.

One thing for me as a novice bladesmith is not knowing rule of thumb type stuff or if there is.

Example: The less I draw the metal down (Below original starting metal width, not distal tapper in this example) the more metal I have available to grind my mistake's out.

On the flip side, the further I draw the metal down the better my skill level will need to be.

Of course at some point there is a point of no return but have no idea what should be expected. IE. percent etc.

Skill level is what I'm working on and was just wondering if there was a good target to shoot at.

I have learn much from you today and again thank you very much.

Kenneth Latiolais

 
Posted : 27/01/2017 9:20 pm
Posts: 233
Member
 

I hopped in on one of these size questions a while back when I hadn't pushed my hammer skills as far as I have now. At the time I recommended a 2"x 1/4" piece at the time. Since then I've changed my mind. Now I'd say 1.5 x 1/4" and I'd add make a couple of kitchen knives for practice. Recently I made a kitchen knife that was close to the dimensions of a test knife and since making it I decided that the test knife that I had already made was not good enough so I forged another one that is much thinner and wider. This is the one I will be testing with next Saturday. It was forged with 1.5 x 1/4 and I ended up having to take some off of the width with the grinder to get inside of the requirements.

Make a couple of destruction blades and push your limits at the anvil. If you don't get to the dimensions, no big deal it's part of the learning process. Steel is cheap don't be afraid to screw some up if it's going to make you a better smith in The process.

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Posted : 29/01/2017 2:06 am
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