Hello all,
I'm going to give stainless san mai a try, and I'm looking for advice on what steel to use in the core. I normally use 1084, W2, and 80CrV2 in my shop, but I'm open to try anything. I've got to put an order in anyway.
I've noticed that quite a few folks recommend 410 for the stainless, but what would be a good steel to start with for the core? I figured it might be good to start with something I'm used to working with (since you heat treat for the core), but I've noticed that 52100 seems to be used often for the core. I hear there might be a detailed heat treat video in the works for 52100, so maybe now is the time to order a batch?
I'm assuming that ease of welding and perhaps how the steels perform in the quench are key factors to consider, or maybe picking the darkest etching steel is the way to go so that it contrasts with the stainless? Or is there a carbon steel that works well (or has a more interesting junction) with stainless because of some of its alloying elements that interact or migrate during forge welding?
I figure I'll do some tinkering--I'll probably try each of the steels I have in my shop for the core--but any advice is appreciated.
Steve
I can think of no steel we normally forge that will not work with a stainless San-Mai recipe.
Most choices are made for the largest amount of manganese so it etches dark. 1084 should do well and heat treatment is not complex at all.
Karl B. Andersen
Journeyman Smith
Thank you for the feedback, Karl. That's good news, as I really don't want to learn a new heat treat while learning to make San Mai.
I Have only used the 410SS and 1095. Worked well.
Joshua States
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recently I have been dinking around with 52100 and 410, the trick i have found is getting it clamped into temper while still high warm from quench. If ya let it cool to much then temper it will rip the core steel right open from shrinking at different rates. Just my experience so far
Minimum Effort = Minimum Results every time
I avoid hardening the areas of the blade where the SS is full thickness - near the spine, ricasso/choil. That avoids the differential issues.
I use 1095 and either 416 or 420.
Karl B. Andersen
Journeyman Smith
