If the blade is not stainless, I think a sheath is a bad idea for a kitchen or chef's knife. Rust will form when moisture is in close contact and a sh...

I would have to agree with Ed on this. I don't really think that is "fixable". It's a hard pill to swallow. The only thing I can think of is explai...

There is no photo attached.

Actually, the fact that this was pre-HT and your normalizing was in daylight, explains a lot about the grain. The cracking could be either overheating...

I've been having trouble seeing any photos on the new site, even my own. I click the link and nothing happens. As it turns out I updated my malware be...

I cannot see the photo

This is a small forging window. My understanding is forge between 1950 and 1500

Any particular reason you are using O1 for this project? Don't get me wrong, I use O1 a lot and it's a great steel. It's just not my first choice for ...

This was a great show. I really enjoyed seeing folks and experiencing Blade for the first time. If I didn't get by your table to say hi, rest assured,...

I am at table 24P. Stop by and say hi

Welcome to the madness. You may not get a lot of comments as most of us are heading to Atlanta tomorrow for Blade Show. See you after the weekend!

As Kevin said, I wouldn't harden the tang end if I were planning a threaded tang or a peened tang. I rarely do either one though. I will typically bra...

@evan-cihak Here have some of mine.  popcorn.gif

This also leads to the discussion of whether to quench and draw back the tang. I know a lot of smiths who purposely do not quench and harden the tang ...

This became a finished knife. Wrought iron guard and spacers with nickel-silver accent spacer. Wrought iron/15N20 twist for the frame, mammoth ivory f...