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Looking for tips on how to open this ball barring (the picture makes a it make a little more sense)

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Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
Topic starter
 

I plan on punching a hole in what was a 2-inch ball barring hot sliding it open, then bending it open to have a longer, somewhat thinner billet I can hold it with a pair of tongs (that I have) and work it from both ends...what is the best way to open it after I hot cut it? Do i hit it on the edge of the anvil or something else? 

 
Posted : 23/02/2024 4:12 pm
Mark Lambert
Posts: 17
Eminent Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

Why not just draw out the length/width of it as is? Is there any reason you are wanting to do it the way you are asking? 

 
Posted : 23/02/2024 6:37 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
Topic starter
 

 Mark Lambert:Why not just draw out the length/width of it as is? Is there any reason you are wanting to do it the way you are asking? (sorry quotes not working)

A few that i can think of:

1: I am Going to be honest and admit I got the idea in my headand i want to attempt to do it. 

2: I dont have a pair of tongs that fit it but if I cut it as described i do have a pair that will hold it. the downside to a work stick is you can only work one side. limiting how i can draw it out somewhat with how i forge.

3:I am Forging it down by hand...and I think this will save me time as even with my 4-pound hammer, it's taking a lot of time to draw this down.

4: I want to try doing it after getting the idea in my head. (yes, I put this up twice.)

Not quite sure: 

1: I think there are some Damascus patterns that require doing something like this. 

2: it's taking a lot of time to heat up in its current form in my smaller forge, and I am broke and almost out of propane, or I would switch to my larger forge. I think if it is longer and a little thinner it will heat up faster. 

 
Posted : 23/02/2024 8:59 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
Topic starter
 

it...worked I managed to do it as i described it...i had to do a subcritical aneal on my first hammer to make it into a striking hammer and use that to widen the hole i cut...but it worked...the bar has some issues due to me not being able to work it hotter, and the reason I could not work it hotter was I was almost out of propane (and am out of propane). I will likely do this again and Work it down more before I do, as I kept getting my punch stuck in it, but it was 1.5 inches thick. 1 of 2

 
Posted : 24/02/2024 7:12 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
Topic starter
 

The bar has some cold shuts due to me not being able to get it to a higher temperature, but it still worked.

2/2

 
Posted : 24/02/2024 7:13 pm
Posts: 142
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

2: I dont have a pair of tongs that fit it but if I cut it as described i do have a pair that will hold it. the downside to a work stick is you can only work one side. limiting how i can draw it out somewhat with how i forge.

 

One lesson I have learned is: 

I have never regretted making another pair of tongs or another hammer.  I am still getting started, but I now have 10 different tongs, and 8 hammers (small compared to some) 

I do like you having an idea and running with it.  That is how we learn.  Success or failure teaches us.

Bob Bryenton
Solar Storm Group Ltd.
Phone: (780) 953-0016
Email: [email protected]
https://www.solarstorm.ca

“The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by going beyond them into the impossible" -- Arthur C. Clarke

 
Posted : 25/02/2024 11:09 am
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
Topic starter
 

Wendell Bryenton: true, I have been making more tools lately (my rule with making tools is I won't make anything that could blow up or electrocute me). I actually made the hot cut chisel and handled punch and handled hot cut chisel. (See photo) I used to do it...I Have yet to make a pair of tongs...mainly cause I dont quite know where to get the thicker stock needed to make them locally outside of using a coil spring, as Shipping thicker steel is expensive...then again, I like using recycled material.

I actually plan on taking a hammer-making class this May from a 'local' blacksmithing guild, the Guild of Metalsmiths, in May. (It is a few hour drive). 

The Really fancy-looking twisted handle cut tool I made in a class and required an Oxipropane torch to make. The flat bar one I made in my shop looks mangled because I need to fix it up. The one I made in my shop is a first-attempt prototype that I used to figure out how to make it using the 'old ways' and welded it because I wanted to make sure it would not break. I plan to make a few more...that will look nicer...but I am out of stock and propane right now.

 
Posted : 25/02/2024 7:25 pm
Posts: 142
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

Looks good, they dont have to be pretty, just work.

Bob Bryenton
Solar Storm Group Ltd.
Phone: (780) 953-0016
Email: [email protected]
https://www.solarstorm.ca

“The only way of finding the limits of the possible is by going beyond them into the impossible" -- Arthur C. Clarke

 
Posted : 26/02/2024 10:28 am
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
Topic starter
 

True. That is my literal policy on tools I make for myself...if I am making it for someone else... they will look nicer.

 
Posted : 26/02/2024 12:18 pm
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