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questions about bolting my anvil stand and post vise stand to concreet floor

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Kevin Stinson
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I finally convinced my mother (whom I rent a room and the garage from)  to let me bolt down my anvil stand...I plan on using half-inch anchored bolts of some kind so I can move the stand for easier cleanup... Because I am currently just using what I have on hand, I think I will have to upgrade the mounting bracket I am making for it (and I need half an inch to mount my grinder stand). so i am looking for suggestions tips and the like.

 
Posted : 09/02/2024 6:04 am
Posts: 20
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Quick question is how big is your anvil?  Second, how thick is the concrete(assuming it’s concrete).  What does your stand look like currently/will you need to add clips or angle to be able to mount it.   
I'm assuming you are doing this to keep it from bouncing when striking.  
A 1/2” bolt in concrete has a very large tension capacity and you’d be more concerned with the capacity of the slab.   A dampening pad between the stand and concrete helps to take some of this repeated striking potential damage away.  The biggest issue I see with bolting to be movable though is you need to either provide a epoxied embed sleeve, or an epoxied threaded rod and lift onto the rods and tighten down.   If you keep bolting into just concrete each time you do it the hole gets a little larger and pretty soon you get no bite at all.  Embeds have a chance of filling up with debris and then ou can thread a bolt into them.  Rod embedded in you have to lift over to be able to get the nut on the threads.  You mentioned you want to be removable for cleaning, but I’m curious as to what you are achieving.  If you want portability. A three leg stand heavily made with a dampening foot will self level and can take quite a beating.  

 
Posted : 09/02/2024 12:07 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
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Posted by: Ryan Lehbauer

Quick question is how big is your anvil?  Second, how thick is the concrete(assuming it’s concrete).  What does your stand look like currently/will you need to add clips or angle to be able to mount it.   

 

(See the picture) I use a first run of the Atlas Anvil – 65 lbs for Knifemakers with a 55-pound bag of duck-tapped concrete. Here is my setup. Yes, I said I needed to add mounting brackets to it.  1/8th inch square tubing i had on hand in half and plan to use 2 3/16th inch bolts to attach them...because I have 3/16 inch bits and i dont have a very big budget.

 

sorry i have not slept much what i plan on using are called a wedge-anchor bolt. Here is what they look like (link) I literally will just have to unscrew a bolt to move it, or I have to make a taller stand if I ever buy a bigger anvil. My shop is a single-car garage. I don't have much room. I am getting 1/2 inch bolts because I already need 6 of them to mount the 2 grinder pedestals I have my belt sander and Bench grinder mounted to and its cheaper to buy one masonry bit, and a a box of 20 of these as i need around 14 as i am also bolting my post vise stand to the floor...along with the bolts. and some silicone to act as padding. And might upgrade my post-vise stand a bit. 

https://www.amazon.com/Wedge-Concrete-Anchors-Plated-Fastener/dp/B0B4W3XCYP/ref=asc_df_B0B4W3XCYP&mcid=1ba4400561f13d5ba04c68370d022775?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920941700335&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520405651246&psc=1

 

 
Posted : 09/02/2024 2:55 pm
Posts: 20
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Okay.  The wedge will work and looking at the concrete it’s old and will have great compression strength, but just be aware concrete is good compression but weak in tension.  The further you can bury those the better it will hold.  Essentially a wedge anchor holds by pressing to the sides for its strength. Do not over torque otherwise it puts the upper above the wedge into tension with itself and you’ll pull it out with some concrete.  
they aren’t really designed for repetitive disassembly and tightening but will work.  just also know that if your stand isn’t fully supported and you are relying on your anchors to keep it tight to the floor, pounding on it is going to generate a bouncing lift force on them and like I said will rely on the tension strength of the concrete to hold it.  

 
Posted : 10/02/2024 4:19 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
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Posted by: Ryan Lehbauer

bouncing

If I understand right (and I likely am not, so, please correct me if I am wrong), The bounce on my stand is very slight, just enough that 50-100 hits move it maybe 4 inches(I have never actually paid attention to it). and it is likely not perfectly level due to my shop literally being a garage that is 100+ years old...and I don't know how thick the concrete is so i am just going with 4 inches.

 

Posted by: Ryan Lehbauer

if your stand isn’t fully supported

 

Please Define supported, as I don't want it tight to the ground I just don't want it to slide forward anymore. 

 
Posted : 10/02/2024 11:02 pm
Posts: 20
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Any movement of the anvil is essentially rebounding and lifting off the slab to move, and each “bounce” is essentially an uplift force putting the area above the bolts into tension when you have it bolted.  When mentioning supported, I’m simply referring to if it is sitting with any rock to it, all points are not fully supported.  That’s why you see so many three post stands.  A three point contact will make contact with all three regardless of the floor irregularities. Four or flat bottom will rock.  

 
Posted : 13/02/2024 10:56 am
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
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thanks.It's also likely my stand is lightweight.

 
Posted : 13/02/2024 12:57 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
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thanks taking that into consideration and some mistakes i made trying to get the alignment right i am going to mount the anvil with diffrent style screw and leave it perminant i am just glad i got my post vice mounted.

 
Posted : 13/02/2024 3:11 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
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Ryan Lehbauer: thanks for the help. I over thought it, and I have it bolted down now. I switched from using the Ancor bolts to Tapcon+ 1/2 in. x 3 in. Heavy Duty Screw Anchors (USE THESE IF YOUR NEW AND BOLTING YOUR ANVIL STAND...OR OTHER THINGS DOWN. THEY ARE SO MUCH EASIER TO LINE UP!!!! However, 1/2 is likely overkill.) I just had to line them up with the brackets and then drill the hole. I also remembered I had some thicker mild steel I could make the brackets out of I chose to do it old and punched and drifted them to size...and I am glad I took the time. I will share another picture. I used probably 1/8th inch by 2 inch by 2 1/4th inch mild bent it 90 using my forge and post vise. I still have the bag of cement to add more weight.

 
Posted : 23/02/2024 9:18 pm
Kevin Stinson
Posts: 117
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The one bracket on the bottom was what I was going to use...and I changed it as I think it would have eventually just torn from the stress of using it. It was not all that thick.

 
Posted : 23/02/2024 9:21 pm
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